“Mugen,” located in Soma City, Fukushima Prefecture, is a Japanese pub (“izakaya”) operated by Loop Foods, a local seafood processing company. Opened in 2018 as the area was recovering from the Great East Japan Earthquake, the pub is famous for serving fresh local fish called “Joban-mono.” What is the secret of tasty “Joban-mono” that is highly rated by the market and foodies in Tokyo alike? We interviewed Mori Takuya, the representative of Mugen and Loop Foods.
Who are the majority of Mugen’s customers? (Locals, tourists or business travelers?)
hey’re mostly locals. Some customers also come in support of the reconstruction efforts (of the Fukushima area, following the 2011 earthquake).
Why did you decide to open a restaurant in Fukushima?
The town where I was born suffered terrible damage in the Great East Japan Earthquake that occurred in 2011. My home was completely destroyed. Reconstruction of the region is still underway, but Soma’s natural environment, in particular, its seafood, is some of the best in Japan, if not the world. I asked myself what I could do to let more people know about it. One answer was to develop a food production loop—from fishing through to processing, and to open my izakaya-style bar, Mugen. Mugen uses the infinity symbol as its logo, with our eyes fixed on the limitless potential of Soma and on its future.
What are you particularly fussy about and what aspects do you consider when serving food in Fukushima?
I’m conscious of “Joban-mono” (regional products from the Fukushima/Joban region) for sure. Fukushima has more than just fish—it has a large range of alluring produce, including meat, vegetables, rice, and sake. A restaurant seemed like a good way to let people try all of these.