Tokyo Tokyo Delicious Museum 2025 [デリシャスミュージアム] - 公式サイト | Discover the Flavors That Can Only Be Experienced in Tokyo

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Biography of Takefumi Hamada

Takefumi Hamada is the No.1 ranked restaurant reviewer for six consecutive years as determined by the OAD (Opinionated About Dining) Top Restaurants, having dined at the best restaurants in 128 countries and regions around the world. He is an advisor to businesses in entertainment, food and hospitality, as well as an investor in food technology startups. Takefumi has a background in finance, starting his career as an investment banker before moving on to private equity. He holds a B.A. magna cum laude, with distinction in Political Science, from Yale University.

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Why a World Traveler Chose Tokyo

Hamada Takefumi is a force in the international food scene, having been ranked Number 1 in the OAD (Opinionated About Dining) Top Restaurants Reviewer Ranking for six consecutive years since 2018. Raised in Japan's Kansai region, Hamada's gastronomic adventures have taken him to well over 100 countries—including America, France, and Italy. Despite his extensive global travels, he has chosen to base himself in Tokyo. “The fact that I live in Tokyo is a deliberate choice,” he said. “It's because Tokyo has the best restaurant scene in the world—that's the only reason I spend so much time here.”

The Indispensable Elements that Support Tokyo's Food Culture

According to Hamada, one defining characteristic of Tokyo's food scene is its sheer number of restaurants, which far surpasses that of other renowned cities like New York and Paris.

“Why are there so many restaurants in Tokyo? That's because the barrier to opening a new restaurant here is very low. In Paris, for example, opening a restaurant is extremely difficult and often prohibitively expensive—you essentially have to purchase the right to operate from someone who's already running a restaurant. You can't simply create a restaurant and expect to get permission from the local government,” he explained. “Tokyo is an entirely different scene. You can open a very small restaurant within six months, even operate it on your own without having to pay salaries. A tiny restaurant serving maybe eight people, twice a night, five days a week—if you're a good chef, you can have a sustainable business. That's the essence of the Tokyo food scene.”

Hamada noted that this vibrant food culture isn't limited solely to Japanese cuisine. “In Tokyo, many restaurants—whether they're sushi, kaiseki, Italian, or French—are very small and intimate,” he observed.

Low overhead costs allow these chefs to pour all their effort and passion into cooking, an element Hamada describes as the “shokunin spirit” of Tokyo. “What sets Tokyo chefs apart is their shokunin-waza—the artisanship and craftsmanship,” he said. “To run a kaiseki restaurant in the Kyoto or Osaka style, you don't only need to be a true shokunin. At the same time, you must also have management skills, which are entirely separate from cooking. But in Tokyo, it's more about focusing on your culinary skills, whether making soba or sushi. That's what makes Tokyo so special.”

Japanese food has become popular worldwide, with chefs putting their own spin on classic dishes. Hamada explains that while there's nothing wrong with creating Japanese-inspired cuisine, experiencing these dishes in their original form is essential for truly understanding and appreciating them, and that experience will impact how they create Japanese-influenced food.

“Many people have been exposed to what they think are Japanese foods—like sushi or wagyu,” Hamada said. “But once they come to Tokyo and experience the best of it, they can tell the difference.”

Hamada also emphasizes the role of Tokyo's logistics in setting its food culture apart. “In France, they have excellent seafood, but traditionally these are cooked fish. They don't have a tradition of eating raw fish. That's why the logistics system there isn't typically designed to deliver fish from the ocean to cities like Paris in a way that it can be enjoyed raw. When you cook it, of course, it's excellent. But when you eat it raw, you can't match the quality you get in Tokyo,” he explained.

“It isn't something that any one fisherman or logistics provider can change—it's the whole system, and it's not easy to replicate,” he added. “That's why people need to come to Tokyo to experience the best of the best.”

Top-quality ingredients, a sophisticated logistics network, and the shokunin artisanship of Tokyo's chefs are the driving forces behind the city's rich and diverse food culture.

The Diversity of Tokyo's Food Culture

While Tokyo is renowned for its traditional fare, Hamada encourages those who have sampled Japanese dishes like sushi or ramen to broaden their horizons by exploring the wealth of restaurants that focus on international cuisine.

“This ‘shokunin spirit' extends to non-Japanese genres as well,” Hamada said. “The city boasts many pizzerias that uphold Neapolitan traditions while others offer unique interpretations using fresh Japanese ingredients.” Even here, Tokyo's commitment to craftsmanship is unmistakable.

Hamada further elaborated, “In cities like Paris, New York, or Barcelona, you can name ten top restaurants, and most foodies would agree on at least five or six of them. But in Tokyo, it's impossible because there are so many excellent restaurants, each with its own identity. That's how diverse and deep Tokyo's culinary scene truly is.”

Hamada's Message to the World

Hamada explained that the purpose of this project is to bring some of Europe's top chefs and journalists to Tokyo to experience authentic Japanese cuisine firsthand. “I believe experiencing Tokyo's dining culture firsthand reveals a striking contrast to what they're accustomed to at home,” he said. “For these chefs and journalists, knowing what the best of the best is will hopefully make a difference in how they think about Japanese food culture.”

He concluded with a simple invitation: “Come and immerse yourself in the true spirit of artisanal craftsmanship.”

This article is sponsored by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.

Simon Rogan

Eric Vildgaard

Mauro Uliassi

Lorraine Haist

Leen Al Zaben

Borja Beneyto

Martina Liverani

Robbie Swinnerton

Goway Travel・ Helloworld Travel・ Andrew Harper・ Ker & Downey
Teresa Perez Tours・ Inside Japan Tours・ Amplitudes

Restaurants

Traditional Japanese cuisine
Tokyo's Evolving Cuisine
The Diversity of Food

The essence of traditional Japanese cuisine, woven by Tokyo's artisanal spirit.

Taste the true flavors of world-class Japanese cuisine in Tokyo, an experience you can't get outside Japan. The freshest ingredients, an advanced logistics system and the craftsmanship of the city's chefs come together to create unparalleled depth in Tokyo's culinary scene.

The Abundant Blessings of the Ocean

Our journey begins at Sushi Saito, a restaurant that prepares one of Japan's most iconic foods —sushi—with unparalleled technique and skill.
Hamada explained that the key to Head Chef Saito Takashi's sushi is the shari (vinegared sushi rice). “You feel like each piece of rice is coated in vinegar, and [it] hasn't really sunk into each of the grains,” Hamada said. Chef Saito also changes the temperature of the shari as needed, using hot or cold rice depending on the fish. Preparation of the ingredients is just as critical as assembling the sushi.

A delectable piece of sushi wouldn't be complete without the neta (toppings). Chef Saito dedicates himself to sourcing fresh fish and pairs them with the shari to create a harmony of flavors. “When something looks beautiful, that means there's balance,” Hamada said. “There needs to be a balance between the rice and the fish so that they both disappear in your mouth at the same time.”

Another important element of Chef Saito's sushi is the flow of the omakase course. Each sushi doesn't exist independently; it is a collective experience that evolves with each piece. “It's like French, British or Italian cooking. The flow is very important. The order in which you serve … each of the pieces, it make[s] a big difference,” Hamada said. The small fluctuations throughout the meal all build to a satisfying climax at the end.

Hamada continued, “Depending on the condition of the fish that particular day … Saito-san would change the way he cuts.” Chef Saito may slice the fish slightly thinner or thicker; in the case of squid, he will often change the number of cuts he makes. This attention to detail is a hallmark of his craftsmanship.

Making sushi requires a combination of knowledge, experience and passion. The intricate techniques chefs incorporate can be hard to teach, as they often come down to instinct. Despite the challenges, sushi chefs in Tokyo train daily to improve their craft while utilizing the city's bounty of fresh seafood.

At SUSHI SHIOGAMAKOU GINZA KIWAMI, you can experience an omakase sushi course brimming with some of the freshest tuna delivered directly from the source.

The restaurant procures its fish from Shiogama, a port city with the highest tuna catch volume in Japan. You won't just experience sushi. You'll also savor the flavors of tuna in sashimi, slightly seared steak, sukiyaki and futomaki (thick sushi roll), among others. You'll enjoy every part of the tuna, each prepared with the utmost skill by experienced chefs.

In the past, tuna was considered a low-class fish, because it was difficult to preserve. If it's not stored properly, it develops a sour and unpleasant taste. Times have changed, however, and with modern refrigeration and freezing technology, tuna has become one of the most luxurious types of fish.

Tokyo's logistics systems are central to the city's ability to provide fresh sushi, and, as Hamada describes, Japan's strict adherence to freshness is something that is not possible in other areas of the world.

“That's the whole reason why people need to come to Tokyo to experience the best of the best,” he said. “That's something that I want to show through this project. [To] understand how good fish can be in terms of their quality and value.”

Logistics and technological advancements in preservation have allowed fresh seafood to reach Tokyo from all corners of Japan. Many restaurants in Tokyo now incorporate local fish and fresh ingredients from across the country, with chefs preparing them in various styles.

Mastering the Finest Wagyu

Nikuya Tanaka is a Tokyo restaurant committed to serving some of Japan's highest-quality wagyu.

Head Chef Tanaka Satoru lives and breathes wagyu. “When he was little, he would help out his parents at [their] butcher shop. His parents were relatively conservative. They would not buy the … most expensive cows, but [instead] relatively mass-market products,” Hamada relayed from Chef Tanaka as he reminisced about his childhood.

His parents were looked down upon by their relatives, who were also in the meat business. Once, his parents brought their beef to a family event. His relatives complained, saying, “I don't want the low-quality beef.” This experience left a strong impression on Chef Tanaka, and he decided that he would become someone who could purchase the highest quality wagyu from the market. “This is the whole purpose of his life. To buy the best beef and serve it to guests,” Hamada said.

Three elements encompass Chef Tanaka's pursuit of the best wagyu: the breed of the cow, the farmers who rear them and how long they raise the cow. On this particular day, he used 50-month-old Matsusaka beef and Kobe beef aged for 54 months.

“The reason … he's pursuing long-term fattening is because as the cows fatten for a longer period of time, the flavor becomes more pure,” Hamada said. “The muscle loosens as the cow ages, so it's not as tough, it's relatively soft. You … taste the flavor of the meat [and] the umami.”

Hamada explained that this long aging process is a rarity in Japan and a challenge to pull off. “It's very difficult for farmers to [raise] these unbred heifers to the age of 45 months or 50 months. This is something that was not achievable in Japan [even] 10 years ago,” he said. “But now, a small number of farmers are really pushing the boundary and trying to see how long they can have the heifers live and also make [the wagyu] better in terms of the taste.”

It's not profitable to procure and serve such high-quality wagyu. However, as the owner of nearly thirty restaurants, Chef Tanaka has the scale to make this operation possible. “This is a money-losing business.
And it's meant to be that way,” Hamada said. “He's happy because the whole purpose … of having 20 [to] 30 restaurants is to be able to do just this.”

Our next wagyu destination is Yakiniku X, another restaurant dedicated to serving exclusively the highest-quality wagyu.

Their signature dish, a tenderloin steak, is cooked with the utmost precision and care. The meat is so soft that the chef could easily pull it apart with only a fork. The restaurant's beef consomme soup is another dish elevated by artisanship, displaying a richness achieved by letting the meat and bones simmer for five days.

There are many other ways to enjoy wagyu beyond steak, including shabu shabu and sukiyaki. The flavors of wagyu can also be enhanced further with a variety of condiments and sauces. The liver is paired perfectly with sesame oil and salt, while lemon puree brings out the flavor of beef tongue.They also elevate the filet with a selection of condiments like garlic chips, wasabi, Japanese pepper and salt.

It's in Tokyo where you can experience the true flavors of wagyu, thanks to the finest selection of beef from across Japan combined with the cooking techniques of some of the finest culinary talent.。

A City Rich With High-Quality Ingredients and Passionate Artisans

At Sukiyaki Asai, chefs elevate the hot pot dish with unique cooking methods.

Sukiyaki is a traditional Japanese dish of beef and vegetables cooked in a broth of soy sauce, sugar and mirin (rice wine). The roots of the dish stem from a beef hot pot that became popular during the Meiji era.

The restaurant procures top-quality Omi beef from Shiga Prefecture and sources the wagyu from a renowned butcher shop. The remaining ingredients are also carefully selected from around the country. Their tofu is from Kyoto, a city famous for its soft spring water, which plays a crucial role in achieving the smooth texture that makes the tofu exceptional. They've selected onions from Awaji Island in the Seto Inland Sea for their sweetness, and special potatoes aged over two years for an uncharacteristically sweet flavor are from Hokkaido. Raw eggs, an essential sukiyaki component, have been sourced from Mie Prefecture for their sweet yolks. These ingredients are combined masterfully by experienced chefs to create a meal of diverse flavors best enjoyed in Tokyo.

Diners can watch from their counter seating as the chefs prepare each dish in front of their eyes. The chefs make sure to delicately adjust the doneness of the meat to suit the different thicknesses of beef. They also use a special technique to whip eggs into a frothy meringue-like sauce, all without breaking the yolk in the process.

Their attention to detail in not just preparing the dishes but also selecting the ingredients is the embodiment of their shokunin spirit. In Tokyo, you can enjoy traditional Japanese cuisine that combines artisanal skill with rich ingredients sourced from all across Japan.
They've selected onions from Awaji Island in the Seto Inland Sea for their sweetness, and special potatoes aged over two years for an uncharacteristically sweet flavor are from Hokkaido. Raw eggs, an essential sukiyaki component, have been sourced from Mie Prefecture for their sweet yolks. These ingredients are combined masterfully by experienced chefs to create a meal of diverse flavors best enjoyed in Tokyo.

Diners can watch from their counter seating as the chefs prepare each dish in front of their eyes. The chefs make sure to delicately adjust the doneness of the meat to suit the different thicknesses of beef. They also use a special technique to whip eggs into a frothy meringue-like sauce, all without breaking the yolk in the process.

Their attention to detail in not just preparing the dishes but also selecting the ingredients is the embodiment of their shokunin spirit. In Tokyo, you can enjoy traditional Japanese cuisine that combines artisanal skill with rich ingredients sourced from all across Japan.

Soba Osame is a Tokyo restaurant dedicated to elevating soba, buckwheat noodles with a long history in Japan.

“In the old days, like 200 years ago, Edo was the biggest city in the world in terms of population. So a lot of people [were] working, and they'd have soba for lunch,” Hamada said. “[But] buckwheat is notoriously hard to work with, as [the dough] tends to break apart [during preparation]. It's very difficult just using buckwheat [to] have the right texture. It just falls apart. If you try it yourself, it's easy to see. It's not gonna stick.”

For this reason, many soba restaurants will use only 50% buckwheat flour for their blend, with the remaining half being wheat flour. Many high-end restaurants still only use 80% buckwheat. This mixture helps the noodles keep their shape, but the final product loses the pure buckwheat flavor and aroma. Soba Osame's owner, Osame Kenji, experimented with different cooking methods to find a technique that would give 100% buckwheat noodles the best texture.

Roppongi Rian serves classic kappo-style cuisine while taking advantage of fresh Japanese ingredients from around the country.

Kappo restaurants often serve dishes in an a la carte format. They can be considered an upscale izakaya or a casual kaiseki restaurant, allowing diners to enjoy Japanese cuisine in a relaxed environment. Kappo dining sets itself apart from kaiseki by focusing on a close connection between the chef and the guest. Counter seating gives diners an intimate and up-close view of each dish being prepared.

Roppongi Rian serves a range of seasonal dishes, including cuttlefish and rapeseed blossom dressed with vinegared miso, ebi-imo (a potato named after shrimp due to its shape) from Kyoto and grilled tilefish served with irizake (a sake-based sauce commonly used during the Edo period). The menu also features charcoal grilled eel, hamaguri (Asian hard clam) soup, wagyu shabu-shabu and rice cooked in a traditional donabe (earthen clay pot). Beyond the variety of dishes, the chefs possess the skill and craftsmanship to bring out each dish's seasonal flavors.

Kappo cuisine is a section of Japanese food culture that has yet to gain wide recognition on the world stage, but Tokyo has many kappo restaurants where diners can enjoy the richness of traditional Japanese cuisine by charting their own course through an a la carte menu.

In Tokyo, you can experience dishes using premium seasonal ingredients from around Japan, prepared by skilled chefs who bring each of their complex flavors to the forefront.

Tradition and Innovation Converge in Tokyo's Food Culture

Tokyo isn't just a hub for Japanese food. International cuisine in the city has rapidly gained popularity while developing a unique identity.

The Ultimate Dish, Born from Obsessive Passion

Our first stop is the burger shop Aldebaran, helmed by Chef Kaya. He prepares each burger with passion and intense attention to detail.

“He's one of the artisans … we have in Japan. Of course, hamburgers are something Western, but his focus, dedication … it's amazing,” Hamada said. “He uses the wagyu and makes the patty out of it. He grills [the buns] on the hot plate, and the precision … is really special because it's only him who makes the hamburger.”

Every day, Chef Kaya meticulously inspects the top-quality wagyu that he receives. According to Hamada, the shop goes against the grain of many other burger restaurants by not being recipe-based, giving the chef full control to adjust minute details of the patties when needed.

The toppings are equally delicious. Chef Kaya prepares his signature burger with sweet teriyaki sauce, caramelized onions, gooey cheddar cheese and an over-easy egg. The flavors fill your mouth with every bite while not being too overwhelming.

Hamada describes the final product as not being dominated by any specific flavor; it's a collection of flavors carefully crafted through years of experience. “The impression you get when eating his burger is the harmony of it,” he said. “You don't really feel like any particular element is standing out. It's really harmonious. You feel like you're eating not [the] ingredients, but the burger as a whole.”

Chef Kaya also pays close attention to the thoughts of his guests. He watches for their reactions and receives feedback from the customers through his wait staff. He uses their observations to elevate his recipes and create the ultimate dish while tailoring the dining experience to his customers. Hamada described him as someone who “epitomizes the shokunin spirit of Japan in the sense that he's so focused on one thing.”

Chef Kaya also pays close attention to the thoughts of his guests. He watches for their reactions and receives feedback from the customers through his wait staff. He uses their observations to elevate his recipes and create the ultimate dish while tailoring the dining experience to his customers. Hamada described him as someone who “epitomizes the shokunin spirit of Japan in the sense that he's so focused on one thing.”

For Chef Kaya, the customer experience is as important as the food. To cut out long wait times, he devised a system where guests can place a reservation every 15 minutes and order their burgers ahead of time. Before they even walk in the door, Chef Kaya prepares the buns and adjusts the grill's temperature. Once the guest arrives, the patty hits the grill and he assembles the burger. Instead of the three-hour wait that guests had dealt with in the past, his novel reservation system ensures that each burger reaches the customer within 10 minutes, providing a smooth and comfortable dining experienc

Thanks to the skills and passion of Tokyo artisans like Chef Kaya, internationally originated cuisines continue evolving in unique ways.

Integration and Development of International Cuisine in Tokyo's Food Culture

Next is The Pizza Bar on 38th, where Executive Chef Daniele Cason has brought together ingredients and cooking techniques from Italy and Japan to create a unique addition to Tokyo's pizza scene.

The restaurant is an intimate eight-seat bar offering an omakase tasting menu. Hamada described that if someone wants to create a tailored restaurant experience with eight seats (or even less), the environment of Tokyo can accommodate it.

While he utilizes Italian ingredients, like the pizza dough flour, providing a classic base, Chef Cason has also evolved during his time in Tokyo to incorporate a variety of fresh Japanese produce and seasonal ingredients to design pizza creations unique to him and the city.

“We start with the classics … a Margherita,” Cason said. “We use tomatoes from … close to Napoli and cherry tomatoes from Kochi. We need to use a lot to mix the fresh tomatoes and canned tomatoes but the flavor is a lot better.”

Another mouthwatering slice is topped with cauliflower, scallop and sea urchin, taking full advantage of Tokyo's fresh seafood. “Japan has a lot of pizzerias, but most of them are very traditional Neapolitan style. So what Daniele is doing is very unique in Japan,” Hamada said.

“He uses … some Japanese ingredients but others come from Italy. He's Italian. But the fact that he's doing this in Tokyo, and … [his mindset is] to continue to be a craftsman. This is very Japanese,” he explained.

It isn't just Chef Cason innovating in Tokyo's pizza culture. “[The] pizza scene is becoming famous,” Hamada said. “A lot of international foodies come to Tokyo to enjoy pizza. So it's becoming known.”

Chef Cason embodies the shokunin spirit of Tokyo as he continues to innovate with Italian and Japanese ingredients while breathing new life into the city's pizza culture.

Tokyo's Future Captivates the World

Our final stop on this small taste of Tokyo's wealth of internationally influenced restaurants is SÉZANNE, the city's most recent three Michelin star recipient. Run by Head Chef Daniel Calvert, the restaurant reached these heights just three years after opening.

Chef Calvert's culinary journey spans from his small hometown in the UK to star-studded kitchens in New York, Paris, Hong Kong and now Tokyo. He has brought these worldwide influences to his dishes while focusing heavily on local produce and ingredients, with nearly 99% sourced from Japan. It's such an important guiding philosophy that a booklet is placed on each table thanking the suppliers who provide the ingredients Chef Calvert needs to bring his creations to life.

“His cooking style has evolved. His cooking in Hong Kong was more traditional. Lots of pies, and very classic French,” Hamada said as he described Chef Calvert. “Now he has access to a lot of ingredients [in Japan] that are really fresh. So his cooking has become more simple and more ingredient-focused.”

Take the night's main course, which featured duck from Aichi Prefecture. Hamada noted that the flavors of Japanese duck can catch some patrons off guard. “North Japan is famous for mallard duck. They land on the rice paddy field and eat rice. So the flavor is very clean,” he said. “If you come from the UK or Denmark, you think that it's farmed because the flavor is so clean. It's not gamey at all.”

When talking about Chef Calvert's style, Hamada described it as “new to most … Japanese people. It's his own style, very unique,” he said. “And he's got this … maniacal attention to detail. It's almost like Japanese shokunin.”

Combining his past experiences, Chef Calvert dedicates himself to his craft, from sourcing ingredients to developing his cooking style. He embodies Tokyo's shokunin spirit through his passion.

From vegetables to seafood, Tokyo is world-renowned for its bounty of fresh ingredients from all across Japan. The spirit of artisanship extends to international cuisine, which continues to thrive in the city as each chef pushes their dishes to new heights.

Tradition and Innovation Power Tokyo's Diverse Food Culture

Tokyo has a rich history of traditional cuisine, combined with food culture from around the world. The chefs of the city's many restaurants use their knowledge and experience to elevate their dishes.

A World of Infinite Culinary Possibilities

Makitori Shin Kobe is a restaurant using new cooking techniques to create an innovative take on yakitori.

The restaurant goes against the grain by cooking their skewers on a wood-fired grill instead of using traditional charcoal. The restaurant owner, Suetomi Makoto, was inspired by his international travels, specifically to Spain. There, he discovered the unique benefits of cooking over a wood fire.

“The inspiration … comes from the Spanish Asado. In a way, it's a fusion. We don't typically cook yakitori … on wood fire. So this is something new,” Hamada said. “It's a new generation of yakitori restaurants. All the other yakitori restaurants, they would use charcoal.”

Hamada explained that while the inspiration for the cooking method came from Spain, the end product is still very Japanese. “You'll see a lot of the inspirations from his travels,” he said. “But it's strictly Japanese in a sense that it's all Japanese ingredients and … the end result is Japanese.”

Wood-fired cooking infuses a delightful aroma into the meat, but the moisture in the wood makes it difficult to achieve crispy skin while leaving the inside moist and tender. Suetomi and Head Chef Hikita Toyoki have used their experiences working with wood fires to find ways around these difficulties.

They underwent a lengthy selection process to find chicken best suited to be cooked over a wood fire, settling on Akita's Hinai Chicken and Gunma's Takasaki Chicken.

Their tori soboro gohan, a mixture of ground chicken and rice, is another example of a common dish elevated by their novel techniques. After cooking over the wood fire, the final step involves covering the pot with a piece of wood inside. This process steams the ingredients and infuses the distinct flavors of the wood into the dish.
“This recipe is very unique to this restaurant. You can't have it anywhere else,” Hamada said. “This kind of aroma you can't get with charcoal.”

This dedication to wood-fire cooking expresses Tokyo's shokunin spirit. Makitori Shin Kobe has married cooking techniques from overseas with the art of yakitori while utilizing high-quality Japanese ingredients to create an experience distinctive to Tokyo.

Our next stop is Azuki to Kouri, helmed by an artisan with a background as a pastry chef.

Kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) is a summer staple in Japan known for its simple combination of shaved ice topped with artificial syrup. However, over the last ten years, chefs have begun infusing high-quality ingredients and innovative toppings to create a new gastronomic category for kakigori.

“People would have [it] at really casual local shops during summer only. People would not eat kakigori in winter in the old days,” Hamada said. “But this new generation of kakigori shops emerged, and now it's a proper genre as a dessert. So people would [now] have kakigori during winter as well.”

Pastry Chef Horio Miho cut her teeth at Florilège, a Michelin-starred French restaurant near Tokyo Tower, before creating Azuki to Kouri, a small nine-seat dessert shop.

“Her offerings are a little bit more complicated than a traditional kakigori,” Hamada said. “Her background as a pastry chef makes a difference. She offers a unique combination … a more refined build.”

The toppings are where Chef Horio can let her experience as a pastry chef shine. While the only constant flavor is azuki (red bean) meringue, other limited flavors, like chestnut with puff pastry, showcase the abilities of a Tokyo shokunin.

The foundation of any kakigori is ice. The mineral content of the water is very important to creating the right texture. Japan's water has naturally lower mineral content, but this can still vary depending on the region. Chef Horio landed on ice manufacturers that use fresh Nagano spring water, providing ice that can achieve the signature fluffy texture she strives for.

Tokyo's welcoming environment for small shops has helped professionals like Chef Horio branch out independently. These artisans utilize their past experiences to develop cuisine unique to Tokyo, pushing standard dishes to new heights of gastronomy.

Finally, we head to FARO, a restaurant serving a full vegan course focused on sustainable ingredients.

This sustainability is at the heart of the restaurant's philosophy. Many ingredients are sourced from trusted suppliers across Japan, while the tableware showcases beautiful dishes, glasses and cutlery from different Japanese artisans.

Head Chef Hamamoto Hiroaki prepares the course's main dishes. He refined his skills in the kitchens of several restaurants across Italy before returning to Japan. He now combines Japanese and Italian cooking techniques to create unique dishes. His pumpkin and pistachio ravioli dish showcases his Italian influences, with pistachios from Sicily stuffed inside each homemade pasta.

Tokyo's environment makes it easy to open small shops, supporting the independence of artisans. Chefs here continue to pursue their ideal cuisine, elevating classic menus to new genres through their unique experiences and skills.

Working alongside Chef Hamamoto is FARO's Pastry Chef, Kato Mineko. Fresh off her crowning as Asia's Best Pastry Chef in 2024 at the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants award event, Chef Kato now brings each course meal at the restaurant to a close with delightful flourishes of colors and flavors.

Her signature Flower Tart dish is the headliner. She tops each tart with vegan cream and 20 different flowers and herbs picked in mountain villages throughout Japan. Most people harvesting the flowers and herbs in these villages are no younger than 70. Kato created the dish in part to help bring prosperity back to these forgotten communities by providing an income to the elderly farmers.

It also serves as a reminder that these villages could soon die out, erasing the sustainable practices and techniques passed down through the generations. The sustainability focus is not just on the ingredients and ecosystem but also on the oft-forgotten communities that are essential in bringing these dishes to the tables of the city's restaurants. This focus on sustainability must play an important role as Tokyo continues to evolve as a consumer city.

In Tokyo, inspirations from abroad meld with traditional Japanese dishes, while local producers work with chefs to bring delicious food creations to life.

Food Related Spot

The Ingredients, Tools and Tableware of Tokyo

Supporting the culinary culture of Tokyo is a network of passionate people working behind the scenes to keep everything running smoothly. A modern logistics system that delivers fresh ingredients, a local shopping street for chefs to purchase their tools, and dedicated artisans creating bespoke tableware. These all make up the framework that supports local restaurants and talented chefs in the biggest city in the world.
We visited several spots that help define Tokyo's dynamic food scene.

Toyosu Market
Depachika, Kappabashi Dougu Street
Edo Kiriko

The Artisanship of Toyosu Market's Wholesalers

Toyosu Market is one of the central points of Tokyo's distribution system, serving as the gathering place for fresh ingredients from across the country. Thanks to this market, we can enjoy a bounty of fresh seafood in Tokyo.From five in the morning, the halls of Toyosu Fish Market are bustling as wholesalers slice and package freshly caught fish that will soon reach the kitchens and counters of Tokyo's countless seafood restaurants and stores.

Mr. Yamaguchi is one such wholesaler, having worked in these halls since his college days when he started helping his father. Now, at the ripe age of 60, he still takes the lead on some of the biggest tasks. Armed with a knife so big it could be mistaken for a katana, Mr. Yamaguchi slices the largest pieces of tuna and decides what cuts get sent to which restaurants. He is passionate about delivering fresh tuna to people around the world.

One important aspect of this symbiotic relationship between supplier and restaurant is the dedication of the chefs to visit the market regularly and develop a deeper connection with suppliers like Mr. Yamaguchi. Building a history and rapport with wholesalers is essential to procuring the best quality catch.

Saito Takeshi, head chef of Sushi Saito, has built a strong relationship with Mr. Yamaguchi. SÉZANNE's Daniel Calvert consistently visits Toyosu Market to chat with wholesalers, check what fish are in season and consider how his dishes could accentuate their flavors.

Toyosu Market is the gathering place for Tokyo's seafood. Thanks to the passion and skill of these wholesalers, you can enjoy fresh, safe and delicious seafood throughout the city.

Depachika & Kappabashi Dougu Street: Tokyo's Culinary Shopping Spots

Supported by the city's efficient distribution system, the flavors of Japanese ingredients extend beyond restaurants to the city's many towering department stores.
Depachika, which combines the Japanese word for department store (depato) and basement (chika), sit on the bottom floors of department stores in Tokyo. They are a popular spot to peruse a vast selection of ingredients, enjoy a snack while shopping or browse specialty goods like alcohol and imported products.

Matsuya Ginza, a large department store in Tokyo's upscale Ginza district, features a multi-floor depachika separated into a grocery store on the bottom floor and a deli on the floor above.

The grocery store features fresh meats, fish and a selection of Japan's famous fruits. With products sourced from all across the country, you can explore regional produce from the comfort of a department store. If you're hungry, head to the upper floor and try culinary delights like piping hot pastries, succulent wagyu or freshly fried croquettes and tempura.

According to Ms. Tatsuno of Matsuya Ginza, it's also a great spot to purchase fresh food or a bento box, which you can then take to the rooftop to enjoy. She also singled out their sweets and snacks as good souvenirs for friends and loved ones.

Step into a depachika, and you'll experience another side of Tokyo's unique culinary culture as you peruse delicious ingredients and food from across Japan.

Tokyo's Kappabashi Dougu Street is the place to go for those in the market for cooking tools.

With a history of over 130 years, this 800-meter-long shopping street is a one-stop shop for chefs, lined from end to end with kitchenware specialty shops. These stores sell everything from large appliances, stoves and store signage for professionals to spatulas and chopsticks for home chefs. This variety of products has made the street popular among foreign tourists.

Kitchen World TDI is one of many shops on the street that stock products for chefs of all skill levels. Cute chopstick holders, Japanese omelet pans, sake cups and matcha products line the store shelves, all useful for elevating your dishes or trying a new recipe. They also stock a variety of imported tools. We got the chance to chat with Mr. Inaba, the Public Relations Officer of Kitchen World TDI.

He mentioned that the shop has the largest selection of directly imported cooking utensils on the street. He also said that his clientele has shifted to include more foreign customers in recent years, showing the growing international interest in Japanese cooking utensils.

Knife shops are also a common sight along the street. Japanese knives are renowned for their sleek designs, gorgeous blades and smooth cutting capabilities. We stopped by Koujin Cutlery and talked with a staff member, who said his greatest joy is finding a knife that perfectly fits a customer's needs and desires.

At Kappabashi Dougu Street, you'll find cooking utensils that embody Japanese tradition and technique, giving you a unique window into another side of Tokyo's food culture

Horiguchi Kiriko: Bespoke Glassware Made With Traditional Techniques

Horiguchi Toru is the head of bespoke glassware maker Horiguchi Kiriko. He carries on the traditions of Edo Kiriko, a type of cut glassware that originally flourished in Tokyo during the 19th century. In 2002, the national government recognized it as a traditional craft.

Horiguchi has carried the teachings handed down to him by three generations of Edo Kiriko masters to the modern day, taking great care to protect tradition while allowing his pupils' creativity to flow. The artisans of Horiguchi Kirko spend hours painstakingly crafting each piece.

According to Horiguchi, Edo Kiriko isn't complete until the customer uses it. Imagining how it will be used is critical when designing a piece. This process involves visiting restaurants to talk with the staff to find out where the glass will sit, the surrounding environment, and what design would be the most beautiful for that particular space. Horiguchi demonstrated as he poured water into one of the glasses before us; we watched the patterns and designs come to life in a new way.

Horiguchi explained that when designing Edo Kiriko, beauty and functionality are the foundation. Sushi Saito procured glassware from Horiguchi Kirkio that featured special cuts around the edges, creating a distinct sensation when drinking from them. They also showcased a jug with rough sections on the sides, making it easy to hold and slip-resistant.

Horiguchi Kiriko carries on a centuries-old Tokyo legacy while innovating with fresh ideas. As restaurant guests lovingly use each piece, the connection with past Tokyo artisans grows, leaving an indelible mark on the city's food culture.

Chef Session

A Culinary Feast Atop the Tokyo Skyline

On January 14, 2024, “Tokyo Artissense: A Female Chef Collaboration” was held at manoma, an event space overlooking the bustling Shibuya Scramble Crossing. Hamada, who planned the program, called on three of Tokyo's leading female chefs to assemble a special one-night-only course employing a unique relay format.

“Artissense,” a combination of “artisan” and “essence,” signifies the craftsmanship that has come to define Tokyo's food culture. “The one word [that] I think epitomizes the culinary scene in Tokyo is … artisanship. Tokyo has a lot of restaurants that specialize in only one thing, like unagi, ramen or soba,” Hamada said during his welcoming speech. “So in that sense, Tokyo has this craftsmanship that's been … in [its] DNA, and these three Japanese chefs are a very good example [of it]. They are showcases of artisanship in their own ways.”

The event began with a koto (traditional Japanese zither) performance played by world-renowned koto player Asuka. Pianist, DJ and composer Nozaki Ryota (Jazztronik) accompanied her with beautiful piano melodies.

Tradition and Innovation Meet in a Sweet Seafood Fusion

Shoji Natsuko, owner and chef of the French restaurant été, prepared the first three courses. Born and raised in Tokyo, she graduated from the food and cooking department of Komba Gakuen High School, a program known for producing many successful chefs and culinary professionals.

She began her career at recte, a highly regarded French restaurant in Tokyo's trendy Daikanyama district. At just 24 years old, she went independent and opened été, a specialty sweets shop, which she transformed into a full-scale restaurant the following year. She has been globally recognized for her talent, being named Asia's Best Pastry Chef in 2020 and Asia's Best Female Chef in 2022.

Her “été Signature Sea Urchin Tart” commenced the meal. The sea urchin was intensely creamy and paired wonderfully with the sweet and cheesy tart beneath. She followed it with “Pomelo Flower,” a lemon bowl filled with a tartare of bonito flakes from Tokyo Bay, hazelnut and basil. The lid, delicately lined with zucchini and citrus, completed the beautiful work of art.

Chef Shoji's final dish was a showcase of her skills and imagination. “Baked Japanese Spiny Lobster in Puff Pastry” combined French traditions with an infusion of Japanese yuzu. Her use of lobster, freshly caught in Tokyo Bay, exemplified the city's seafood bounty.

“This kind of traditional recipe is relatively difficult to get right, especially with the pie. It's difficult to get the crust … and the inside [of the pastry] right. There's always this contradiction,” Hamada said.

Exploring the Possibilities of Ramen and Kakigori

Chef Shoji then passed the baton to Chef Yajima Jun, another Tokyo native. After honing her craft at a highly regarded ramen shop in Akihabara, she opened her own restaurant and received the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Award soon after. In 2019, Chef Yajima launched a kakigori specialty shop with her son. Four years later, she perfectly melded her past experiences together to create Junmugi, a shop with a unique tasting menu concept encompassing ramen and kakigori.

For this event, Chef Yajima specifically chose to highlight Tokyo's fresh ingredients in her ramen, utilizing Tokyo Shamo chicken and TOKYO X pork. Japan's capital is known as a hub for fresh ingredients from regional communities across Japan, but her ramen shows that Tokyo also has its own thriving local producers.

“She's using so many high-quality ingredients for the broth, like the pork [and] chicken. She uses prime cuts,” Hamada said when describing Chef Yajima's ramen. “It's full of flavor, but it's not too strong. It's well-rounded.”

Chef Yajima proves that if you have the talent and drive, you can succeed in Tokyo's fiercely competitive ramen scene regardless of gender.

Her kakigori was equally delicious, a dessert with fluffy shaved ice topped with fresh mandarin orange and kumquat. One of the visiting chefs commented that they'd never eaten kakigori with such a fluffy texture. Others were impressed with her technique, expressing surprise that the ice didn't feel cold.

Chef Yajima has created a unique culinary concept that combines the rich flavors of ramen with the light sweetness of kakigori. Her ingenuity shows the endless possibilities for new creations that help push Tokyo's food culture to new heights.

A Dessert Beautifully Decorated with Seasonal Flowers

Pastry Chef Kato Mineko of the innovative Italian restaurant FARO prepared the final two dishes. Chef Kato is also from Tokyo and has established herself among her peers in the city and around the world. Her culinary resume includes a decade working in Italy as a pastry chef at several renowned Michelin-starred restaurants. Her trophy case is vast with accolades including Gault&Millau 2022 Best Patissier, LA LISTE JAPANESE AWARDS 2024 TOP PASTRY CHEF and Asia's Best Pastry Chef 2024 by Asia's 50 Best Restaurants.

Her first dish, titled “Rose, Hinoki and Almond,” was a beautiful dessert with a harmony of flavors and aromas that evoked the calmness of the forest. Rose petals adorned the top of a smooth and soft sorbet accompanied by almonds, Tokyo-grown strawberries and the fragrance of Japanese cypress.

The course finished the way it began: with a tart. A beautiful bouquet-like arrangement of nearly 20 flowers and herbs sat atop a sweet pastry. The dish's name, “Satoyama Flower Tart,” takes inspiration from the small villages in the Japanese countryside that sit on the border with mountain forests. Chef Kato explained her vision for the flower tart, saying that its aroma and texture delight the senses at the end of the meal.

The appeal of her “Satoyama Flower Tart” lies in its rich aroma. With each bite, Chef Kato whisks you away to the natural landscapes of Japanese satoyama.

The Future of Tokyo's Culinary Culture

After the meal concluded, the three chefs discussed how they poured their passion into their dishes, why they chose to work in Tokyo and what they felt was the appeal of the city's food culture.

Regarding the night's dishes, Chef Shoji explained that it was an opportunity to highlight the work of local producers while showcasing Tokyo-sourced ingredients on the world stage. Chef Yajima said that using Tokyo Shamo chicken allowed her to infuse her ramen broth with the flavors of the wild. Chef Kato mentioned that using Japanese cypress and Tokyo-grown strawberries gave her pastry a richer aroma while incorporating an environmental message about protecting the forests.

Speaking about the unique nature of Tokyo's food scene and their reasons for setting up shop in the city, Chef Shoji pointed to the proliferation of small shops in Tokyo. Her restaurant only seats a maximum of six guests. Chef Yajima said the city is a unique gathering place for global talent. Chef Kato noted that Tokyo is unique among Japanese food culture in that chefs have the freedom to focus exclusively on one thing.

All three chefs also described how the increasing number of overseas travelers to Tokyo has influenced their cooking styles. Chef Shoji keeps in mind the preferences and backgrounds of those from different cultures while still incorporating her unique tastes. Chef Yajima explained that her restaurant has begun welcoming more international customers.

The three chefs also discussed some of the challenges they face in sourcing their ingredients sustainably and conveying the appeal of Tokyo's cuisine to a worldwide audience. Chef Kato incorporates the theme of “universality” in her desserts. She focuses on environmental issues while making plant-based, gluten and sugar-free desserts that anyone can enjoy.

Guests were impressed with the quality of Tokyo's local ingredients and were pleased that events that give female chefs a chance to shine are being held in the city. One participant said that while other events focus purely on food, Tokyo Artissense was special because it allowed them to experience Japanese culture through music and cuisine, as well as hear directly from the chefs about their passion for cooking.

Through the collaboration of three accomplished female chefs, Tokyo Artissense demonstrates that artisanship is at the heart of Tokyo's food culture, while giving us a glimpse of new and innovative creations waiting in the future.

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