Upon arrival, the first stop for the two of them was Kaminato Fishing Port, located in the northeast of Hachijojima Island. According to Mr. Shinichi Ozaki from the Hachijojima Island Fisheries Cooperative, the island benefits from the Kuroshio Current, making it rich in migratory fish. The most frequently caught fish here is kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), which is available year-round.

As usual, the port that day was lined with kinmedai and medai (Japanese butterfish) awaiting shipment.
"Other than those, the catch varies by season, but we get bonito, striped marlin, tuna, flying fish, mackerel scad, blue snapper (aodai), and long-tailed red snapper (onagadai), among others. The long-tailed red snapper keeps well, so the locals are particularly fond of it," says Mr. Ozaki.

As fishing boats were returning to the port one after another, we were given a special opportunity to observe the unloading process.
A fisherman said, "Today's catch is bonito and yellowfin tuna. We caught the yellowfin just nearby."
With that, they hauled up one massive fish after another, each over 80 cm long, and lined them up neatly.

Seeing this scene, Ms. Satoi’s eyes widened in surprise. “I always thought only small fish could be caught in Tokyo’s waters, but this is completely different! I can’t believe they can catch such impressive fish here!”
Mr. Kijima was equally amazed. “Yellowfin tuna, caught right near the port – guess that’s why this is Hachijojima Island!”
And then…
"Look, a sea turtle!"
A sea turtle was leisurely swimming past the fishing boats, sending the two into a frenzy of excitement. From the moment they arrived, they got a firsthand glimpse of the incredible richness of the ocean in Tokyo’s island region.

However, the island’s fishing industry also faces challenges.
"We can’t catch bonito like we used to. And with the increase in kinmedai fishing, their numbers are declining," said Mr. Ozaki.
Since it takes about 15 years for kinmedai to reach a certain size, the fishery cooperative is taking active steps toward sustainable practices. They refrain from fishing during the spawning season, tag and release fish to track their migration patterns, and take other measures to ensure the long-term viability of their catch.

The fish unloaded at Kaminato Port are sent to Toyosu Market, except for the portion purchased by island residents. Some of those fish even make their way into school lunches at public schools in Tokyo. Additionally, the women's division of the fishery cooperative visits elementary schools on the mainland each year to teach students about Hachijojima Island’s culture and how to prepare fish.
"Of course, we also teach kids on Hachijojima Island, so there are children here who know how to clean and fillet fish," Mr. Ozaki said with a proud smile.

Asoko Zushi is the place to go for a taste of the fresh fish unloaded at Kaminato Port.
In the Izu Islands, sushi made with soy-marinated fish and mustard is commonly known as shima-zushi (island sushi). However, the shima-zushi at this restaurant refers to classic nigiri sushi featuring fish commonly eaten on Hachijojima Island. The selection that day included kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), bashō-ika (bigfin reef squid), aodai (blue snapper), yellowfin tuna, shima-aji (striped jack), and onagadai (long-tailed red snapper) as nigiri, along with a kitsune (hagatsuo, or striped bonito) sushi roll.
When asked about the origin of the name kitsune, owner Mr. Koki Asanuma explained:
"It’s a type of bonito, but it tastes like tuna, so it sort of tricks people - just like a fox does (‘kitsune‘ is Japanese for ’fox‘). Make sure to eat it first while the nori is still crisp!"

On the other hand, the shoyu-zuke shima-zushi (soy-marinated island sushi) platter featured kanpachi (greater amberjack), medai (Japanese butterfish), and nigiri topped with rock seaweed. Instead of wasabi, mustard was used as the condiment.
Ms. Satoi, taking a bite, looked astonished. “This is my first time trying sushi with mustard. It has such a mellow, well-rounded flavor. The vinegared rice isn’t too sharp, and the mustard doesn’t have that strong, pungent kick at all.”
Mr. Kijima was also intrigued. “Mustard actually pairs really well with sushi! And the marinade isn’t too salty - it’s just right. How long do you marinate the fish? Do you add mirin to the soy sauce?” he asked eagerly.

"We only use soy sauce," Mr. Asanuma explained. "Today, the kanpachi was marinated for about 40 minutes, and the medai for around 30 minutes, but the timing depends on the condition of the fish. There’s no strict rule - our ancestors knew it was ready when it turned a rich amber color." It seems that sushi with mustard originated on Hachijojima Island, though the exact history is unclear. "The soy marinade was a way to improve shelf life. And since mustard retains its spiciness longer than wasabi, they probably paired it with the marinated fish. But most importantly, it just tastes good - that’s why the tradition stuck around," Mr. Asanuma said.

One particularly fascinating aspect is how the islanders pair their condiments. Wasabi is used for regular nigiri sushi, mustard for soy-marinated sushi, and island chili peppers (shima tōgarashi) for sashimi.
Under Mr. Asanuma’s guidance, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima tried crushing a small, 2 cm-long island chili pepper into their soy sauce.
"Whoa, talk about spicy! But the aroma is so refreshing!"
"It pairs so well with white fish sashimi! Guess there’s a lot I don’t know."
They savored the spicy kick of the chili, which enhanced the natural flavors of the fish.
With every bite, they not only enjoyed the island’s fresh, locally caught seafood but also gained a deeper appreciation for the wisdom of past generations and the rich history and traditions behind shima-zushi.

Next, they visited Osada Shoten, a shop that produces Kusaya, a traditional preserved fish from the Izu Islands. The store’s second-generation owner, Mr. Takahiro Osada, engages in activities to convey the appeal of Kusaya and even offers tours of the processing facility.

Kusaya is a type of dried fish, but what sets it apart is the use of a brine called Kusaya eki. During the Edo period, salt was highly valuable in the Izu Islands, as the region was subject to a salt tax. To conserve resources, fishermen reused the same brine for marinating fish, adding only small amounts of salt as needed. Over time, the proteins in the fish began to ferment in the liquid, leading to the development of Kusaya eki, a brine rich in beneficial bacteria with strong antibacterial properties.

"Kusaya eki was introduced to Hachijojima Island from Nii-jima in the early Meiji period, and that’s when Kusaya-making began here. Each processor has their own unique brine, so the taste and aroma of Kusaya can vary greatly depending on who makes it. There are also differences between islands. The defining characteristics of Hachijojima Island’s Kusaya are twofold: first, we process freshly caught local fish while they’re still at their freshest; second, we soak the fish in water to remove excess salt. This extra rinsing step results in a milder aroma, making it easy to eat," Mr. Osada explained.

To make Kusaya, the fish are marinated in Kusaya eki for 12 hours, then soaked in water to reduce the saltiness before being air-dried in a drying chamber for 1-and-a-half to 2 days.

To experience the process firsthand, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima tried submerging fish into the Kusaya eki. Using wooden sticks, they stirred the liquid to activate the beneficial bacteria. As they stirred, the distinctive Kusaya aroma wafted up, filling the air.
"Whoa! This is quite something…" They were surprised by the unique scent, at the same time gaining a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this centuries-old island tradition.

Because of its distinct aroma, Kusaya has both devoted fans who find it addictive and those who struggle with its strong scent. Even on Hachijojima Island, consumption among younger generations has declined, and over the past 30 years, the number of Kusaya processors on the island has dropped to about one-third of what it once was. Today, only two businesses, including Osada Shoten, are dedicated exclusively to Kusaya production.
"The fish we use for Kusaya, like flying fish and mackerel scads, are now only caught during limited seasons. It wouldn’t be surprising if production ceased entirely one day - things are that difficult. But despite the challenges, I continue to promote Kusaya for the sake of the island’s children," Mr. Osada said.

Hachijojima Island’s children learn about Kusaya through Mr. Osada’s lectures at school and visits to his processing facility. Many develop an interest in the island’s traditional food. "There was this time when a child came to my workshop and told me it smelled good. That moment changed everything for me. I stopped belittling Kusaya as being ‘stinky.’ Just like how the smell of curry makes people think, ‘We’re having curry tonight,’ I want Kusaya’s aroma to make people think: ‘Oh, today we’re having Kusaya!’ For the sake of the children, I want to be proud of the scent of Kusaya being the scent of Hachijojima Island."

After the tour, Mr. Kijima said, "Once a cultural tradition disappears, it’s nearly impossible to bring it back. And preserving it isn’t something that just one business can do alone. Through my work, I’ve had the chance to learn about local cuisine from people all over Japan, and I often wonder, ‘What happens to this dish when the person making it is gone?’ I truly hope Mr. Osada can pass Kusaya on to future generations. I think if Kusaya were to disappear, many people would be sad."

♪From the open seas, it looks like a demon island, but once you arrive, Hachijo is an island of warmth
These lyrics are from Shome-bushi, a traditional Hachijojima Island folk song, inspired the name of the local shochu (liquor), Nasakeshima. During their visit, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima dropped by Hachijo Kohatsu, the distillery that produces this shochu, for a factory tour.

Welcoming them was third-generation owner Mr. Zenyu Komiyama, who explained that shochu production on Hachijojima Island dates back to the late Edo period. According to legend, a Satsuma merchant named Tanso Shoemon was exiled to the island and passed down the knowledge of shochu-making. From there, the culture of shochu spread throughout the Izu Islands. Today, there are four distilleries on Hachijojima Island, and when locals talk about "sake", they are of course referring to shochu. Even the sacred offerings at Shinto shrines here use shochu.

"Kyushu shochu is made with rice malt, but the Izu Islands weren’t suited for rice cultivation, so they used barley malt instead. Rice malt gives a sweet, rich flavor, while barley malt creates a toasty, refreshing taste. That’s the key difference. Hachijojima Island, in particular, has abundant rainfall and soft, high-quality water, making it an ideal place for shochu production," Mr. Komiyama explained. Today, Hachijo Kōhatsu produces three types of shochu: mugi shochu, which is made from barley, imo shochu, made from sweet potatoes but using barley malt, and a third that blends the two.

Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima were given special permission to experience stirring the fermentation tank using a pole. "The inside looks cloudy. I can see bubbles rising to the surface," Ms. Satoi exclaimed in surprise. Mr. Komiyama explained, "That's because it's actively fermenting. The cloudy upper layer accumulates bacteria, so we stir it to mix the contents. This allows citric acid, which settles at the bottom, to rise and naturally kill off unwanted bacteria. It also helps distribute the carbon dioxide that has collected below."

Next was time for a tasting. Since they were sampling the shochu straight, the moment they tilted their glasses, a strong yet sweet aroma filled their noses. The liquid coated their tongues with a smooth, warming sensation, followed by the gentle burn of alcohol.
The Bakkan Nasakeshima, a barley malt and barley-based shochu, impressed Mr. Kijima with its distinct notes of cocoa and malted chocolate. Meanwhile, Ms. Satoi tried the Nasakeshima Imo, a barley malt and sweet potato shochu. "It has a sweet aroma like that of a sweet potato. It also a whisky-like taste, probably from the barley malt," she said, surprised by its balanced taste.

According to Mr. Komiyama, the shochu is composed of 75% Hachijojima Island’s water and 25% tasteless and odorless alcohol. But it also contains less than 1% high-grade fatty acids, which are the source of the aroma that lingers in the nose when drinking it. "People determine whether they like or hate that shochu by sniffing that aroma. If there are many high-grade fatty acids, the drink oxidizes. If there are too few, the fragrance disappears. Getting the right balance is difficult. Shochu is an alcoholic beverage in which brewers compete for individuality in a small world where only less than 1% is produced."

Despite its 170-year history, the shochu of the Tokyo Islands remains relatively unknown nationwide. To change this, distilleries in the Tokyo Islands have been actively promoting their products. In March 2024, the National Tax Agency designated the region with a Geographical Indication (GI*), allowing nine distilleries across the Izu Islands to label their products as Tokyo Shimazake.
"We're also collaborating with bars in central Tokyo and participating in various events. We don’t want to become a relic of the past, so we want to share the appeal of Tokyo Shimazake with more people, especially younger generations," Mr. Komiyama said passionately.
*A system in which the government registers and protects alcoholic beverages, agricultural products, etc. whose quality is tied to traditional production methods and characteristics of the region of production as regional brands.

For dinner, they headed to Ryozanpaku, an izakaya specializing in the local cuisine of Hachijojima Island. Lining the counter were bottles of Nasakeshima and other varieties of shochu from the island. The menu featured freshly caught seafood from the fishing port, Kusaya from Osada Shoten, and high-quality cheese from the renowned Enkel to Hare cheese factory. Here, people can fully immerse themselves in the rich culinary culture of Hachijojima Island.

"Great job today! Cheers!"
The first dish recommended by Kazuyuki Yamada, the second-generation owner, was Budo. A traditional dish of Hachijojima Island, it is made by boiling and dissolving Kagiibara nori, a type of seaweed that contains a natural thickening agent similar to agar. Sliced fish and green onions are then added, seasoned with salt, and left to set.
"It has a strong aroma of the seashore. I expected a jelly-like texture similar to nikogori (jellied broth), but it's very crisp," said Mr. Kijima.

The second dish was the restaurant’s most popular item - Ashitaba Tempura. “With each bite, you can hear the crisp sound of the light batter. Its subtle bitterness is addictively delicious,” said Ms. Satoi. Known as Hachijoso, Ashitaba is a soul food of Hachijojima Island. It pairs well with a variety of dishes, including tea, ice cream, and pasta.

“That looks delicious too!” Ms. Satoi said, reacting to the next dish - Umikaze Shiitake No Kushiyaki (Grilled Seabreeze Shiitake Mushroom Skewers). With its high rainfall and humidity, Hachijojima Island provides an ideal environment for growing shiitake mushrooms. Both Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima couldn’t stop smiling at the sight of the thick, meaty Umikaze Shiitake, nurtured by the island’s sea breeze, being quickly grilled with a soy-based dashi.

The Hachijo Jersey Milk Mozzarella With Tomato featured cheese from Enkel to Hare. “The texture of the cheese is delightfully springy, and its rich, milky flavor spreads beautifully,” Ms. Satoi said.

For the Kusaya, Mr. Yamada taught them the proper way to eat it - first removing the head, then tearing it lengthwise, and finally shredding it into smaller pieces. “The smell completely disappears once it’s in your mouth. Wow, it’s delicious! And it pairs perfectly with shochu!” Mr. Kijima exclaimed, impressed by the charm of Kusaya.

After tasting the freshly caught kinmedai and bonito sashimi from Kaminato Fishing Port, Ms. Satoi was astonished. “This isn’t the texture of bonito that I know,” she exclaimed. Mr. Yamada, pleased with her reaction, replied, “Freshly caught katsuo is a whole new level.”
Since rough seas often prevent fishing boats from going out, there are many days when fresh fish is unavailable on Hachijojima Island. However, at Ryozanpaku, they strive to serve sashimi with the freshest fish whenever possible. “From a business standpoint, it’s tough, but we want our customers to enjoy the really delicious fish. Ingredients for traditional cuisine have become harder to source, but we do our best to keep the authentic flavors of Hachijojima Island alive,” Mr. Yamada said.

The next morning, the two headed to Yuyu Dairy Farm, located within the grounds of Lido Park Resort Hachijojima Island. Around 40 Jersey cattle are being raised here, and visitors are welcome to explore freely (with some guidelines in place). During the day, the cattle are let out to graze in the forest, where they roam energetically. Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima couldn’t help but smile at the sight of the adorable, friendly calves.

The man who makes cheese using milk from these Jersey cattle is Mr. Takayuki Uotani, the only cheesemaker in the Tokyo Islands and the founder of the cheese workshop Enkel to Hare.
The cheeses that Mr. Uotani makes have won numerous awards, including the top gold prize at Japan’s largest cheese competition. The milk used in his cheeses has even been served at a state banquet hosted by the Prime Minister and his wife, earning it widespread acclaim. By the way, "Enkel" is Swedish for "normal is just right." The workshop’s name reflects Mr. Uotani’s vision of creating something special within everyday life.

Today, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima were given special permission to experience making mozzarella cheese firsthand. They started with green cheese, a curdled form of milk made by adding lactic acid bacteria and enzymes to pasteurized milk, then draining off the liquid whey. At the stage where salt was added and the cheese was crumbled, it had a rough, crumbly texture. However, as soon as hot water was poured over it, it quickly transformed into a smooth, stretchy consistency - almost like mochi (rice cakes).

Next, they stretched the cheese up and down two or three times. Amazed at how effortlessly it stretched, the two exclaimed excitedly, “Wow! Look at it stretch all the way!”

“This process has the effect of aligning the cheese fibers vertically. As the cheese is gathered together, the fibers form delicate layers, almost like a mille-feuille, which help trap the rich flavors inside,” Mr. Uotani explained. Mr. Kijima was impressed, saying, “You can actually see the fibers! So this is the secret behind mozzarella’s delicious texture.”
After that, the two of them had a hard time squeezing the cheese until it was round and tearing them off, but they managed to somehow finish making the mozzarella cheese.

Tasting it, they found the cheese still slightly warm, with a firm yet springy texture. The rich milk flavor and subtle saltiness spread across their palates.
“This is delicious!”
“I think this is my first time eating freshly-made mozzarella cheese,” they said, their faces lighting up with joy.

Actually, Hachijojima Island has a long history of dairy farming dating back to the Meiji era.
“In the Meiji era, the island produced canned beef and butter. And in the Taisho era, there was even a cow here that set a world record for daily milk production - 75 liters in a single day! In fact, the top three milk-producing cows that year all came from Hachijojima Island. There are many old words in the island’s dialect related to cattle, which really shows how deeply connected Hachijojima Island and dairy farming have been throughout history,” Mr. Uotani said.

The ability to raise high-quality dairy cows on Hachijojima Island dates back to the efforts of past generations. They selectively bred magusa, a type of susuki grass native to the island, and cultivated it year-round as livestock feed. Even today, while Yuyu Dairy Farm continues to feed its cows with magusa, the cows also enjoy a diverse diet that includes wild ashitaba, sweet potato vines, kobunagusa (used as a dye for Hachijojima Island’s traditional yellow silk cloth), and even fruit such as lemons. The dairy products of Hachijo Jersey cattle are truly a reflection of the island’s climate, natural environment, and the ingenuity of its people - a genuine product of the land’s blessings. Looking ahead, Mr. Uotani hopes to expand dairy farming and beef production by utilizing abandoned farmland. “One day, we’d love to establish a premium beef brand from Hachijojima Island,” he said. The island’s rich dairy farming legacy is set to continue for generations to come.

Milk and other dairy products made from Yuyu Dairy Farm’s Jersey cattle, as well as sweets and beverages made using the island’s fruits, can be savored at Hachijo Island Jersey Cafe located in the Okago district.
The encounter between Mr. Shinya Utakawa, who is involved in its operations, and Mr. Uotani sparked new product development efforts, leading to a great rise in the appeal and recognition of Hachijojima Island’s dairy products over the past few years.

Inside the café, the display case is filled with an array of treats, including cheeses from Enkel to Hare, cheesecakes made from Jersey cattle milk, Ashitaba chiffon cakes and puddings. Ms. Satoi bought several cheeses, saying, “I want to compare the mozzarella I made with Mr. Uotani’s to see the difference.” The café’s most popular item is its soft-serve ice cream, while the drink menu features Jersey milk and yogurt-based beverages - making it a true haven for Jersey dairy lovers!

Tasting the rich yet refreshingly light Jersey milk soft-serve and the perfectly balanced Ashitaba-flavored soft-serve with its subtle bitterness, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima said, “So that’s why it’s so popular!”, and smiled again.

And so, the two travelers concluded their one-night, two-day culinary journey through Hachijojima Island. They were asked about their thoughts.
"This trip was filled with discoveries about the island’s landscape, food culture, and traditions. From dairy farming and fishing to Kusaya, shochu, and local cuisine, we visited various places and spoke with producers, processors, and chefs. It gave me a deep understanding of Hachijojima Island’s food culture, and I learned so much. I was born in Tokyo, but I now realize how little I knew about Hachijojima Island. What a waste! The fact that it's just an hour from Haneda is also a huge plus, so I’ll definitely come back on my own time," said Mr. Kijima.
Ms. Satoi said, "Throughout the trip, I kept thinking, ‘Is this really Tokyo?’ The islanders’ deep passion for their food culture and traditions was inspiring. Seeing the origins of the cuisine - at the fishing ports and dairy farms - and then tasting the expertly crafted delicacies was truly rewarding. I also experienced the joy of learning new things and the excitement of having my own preconceptions challenged. Next time, I’d love to come back to eat Hachijojima Island’s sweets."

Hachijojima Island is a treasure trove of natural beauty, graced by the sea and mountains. Its idyllic pastures, where cows graze against stunning backdrops, are breathtaking. At night, the sky transforms into a natural planetarium, and in winter, visitors can enjoy whale watching. The island’s vibrant food culture is the result of generations of dedication by its people. Exploring its flavors and uncovering the stories behind each experience makes for an unforgettable journey.

The first place we visited was Satologue, located between Kori and Hatonosu Stations on the JR Ome Line. Satologue features a restaurant that makes use of local ingredients, called TOKIRO, and a wood-fired sauna FUKISUI. Since its opening in May 2024, the facility has gained popularity as a place where visitors can spend time while enjoying the view of the Tama River.
Lunch is available by reservation only. Before our meal, we were told that we could take a walk in the field in front of the restaurant, which Chef Yuta Komagamine guided us through. Here they have a wasabi terrace and a kitchen garden, and the restaurant uses local vegetables, including pesticide-free vegetables grown in this field.

"I moved here from central Tokyo when this facility opened, so this was my first time working in the field. I grow vegetables with the help of the elderly gentlemen in the community. Right now, we are growing vegetables like sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, okra, jalapenos, broccoli, and spinach," said Chef Komagamine.
In the field, we could hear the sound of water and birds chirping from the nearby Kiyomidaki Falls. It is precisely because of this rich natural environment that they aim for recycling-oriented agriculture at this field. The ashes from burning firewood in the sauna are spread as fertilizer, and food scraps from the restaurant are composted and used to make manure. Chef Yamashita, who was helping to spread the ashes on the field, said, "I feel like an old man garden fairy. Wow! There is a big praying mantis! As someone who also works in the food industry, I envy being able to grow vegetables in an area so rich in nature," enjoying every moment of it.

The restaurant is housed in a 130-year-old renovated traditional house, which he said used to be used for river fish farming. Beyond the large window in the front, trees in the countryside (the natural environment between mountain foothills and arable land) and the clear waters of the Tama River stretch out before us, almost making us forget that we are in Tokyo. Chef Yamashita sat at the counter facing the window with a sunken kotatsu, and exclaimed in awe at the magnificent view of the countryside spread out before him. The seats were positioned one level lower than the floor, not only providing a deep angle view of the Tama River and fields below, but also lowering the body's center of gravity so that the guests could feel as if they were blending in with nature. Chef Yamashita, immersed in the comfort for a while, was also impressed, remarking, "The design of this building is well thought out and really wonderful."

The dishes of the day were: creamy taro soup with homemade hishio sauce, tart with log-grown shiitake mushrooms and silkie chicken eggs, seared wild ayu fish with autumn eggplant, peanut ravioli with persimmon and Tokyo Shamo chicken, char-grilled Tokyo wagyu beef with wagyu broth and homemade miso sauce, and fig leaf blanc mange. This course is truly packed with ingredients produced in the Tama region.

Moreover, Chef Komagamine's explanation of the dishes was accompanied by stories such as "I pureed mustard spinach given to me by the old lady next door..." and "I used yuzu pepper made from the yuzu at the old lady's house next door and jalapenos from the field..." and you could feel the warmth of the local people in each dish.
"Mmmm! It's delicious." Chef Yamashita praised the dish, adding, "It's great that you can really taste the ingredients. It's really wonderful that you can achieve this quality with a limited amount of ingredients, without spoiling the ingredients or the flavors unique to countryside."

"What would you like to communicate to your guests here?"
Chef Komagamine answered Chef Yamashita by telling his story.
"In the spring of 2025, we will be completing the accommodations on the property, and I hope people will enjoy the views from here, the relaxing time, and the seasonal cuisine. When I myself moved here from central Tokyo, I learned that Tokyo has many different ingredients such as Tokyo wagyu beef, Nishi-Tokyo Shamo chicken, and pesticide-free vegetables. I was amazed to receive vegetables from the old lady and gentleman next door, and to experience this kind of interaction in a place like Tokyo. I want to let my guests know that just an hour or two train ride from the central Tokyo brings them to a location rich in nature, where they can feel like they are back home."

After leaving the restaurant, we asked Chef Yamashita again what he thought of the restaurant. He expressed his hopes for the future, remarking, "It seems like they are building an accommodation block in the future, which will further bring out the best of this location. Chef Komagamine's story featured many of the elderly neighbors, and I like that he seems to have a strong community presence in the area. No doubt, this will be a place that people will want to visit, given the atmosphere of the restaurant among other appeals. I believe the place is going to be the core of gastronomy tourism in Tama."

The next destination, Musashi Mitake Shrine, is located at the top of Mt. Mitake at an altitude of 929 meters. From Takimoto Station, we took the cable car up 424 meters to Mt. Mitake Station. From there, you can walk to Musashi Mitake Shrine, but we took the chairlift to go further up. Magnificent scenery greeted us in the direction of central Tokyo from Mt. Mitake.

After passing through an area lined with shukubo inns* and climbing a steep hill, we came to a traditional shopping street lined with tea stores and souvenir stores. "There's a tea store right where I want to rest. We take the stairs from here, I see! This is surprisingly arduous," said Chef Yamashita with a wry smile as he breathed in a chest full of fresh, clean mountain air.
*Shukubo inn...Accommodation facilities set up near shrines and temples for worshippers, Ujiko (shrine parishioners), and monks. Many of them now accept general travelers.

The senior priest, Mr. Tadashi Utsuboya, welcomed us at the vermilion-lacquered offering hall and worship hall. According to Mr. Utsuboya, Musashi Mitake Shrine is an old shrine founded during the reign of the 10th Emperor Sujin, and the priesthood is made up of people from the 34 "shake" families (a family lineage in which the priesthood is hereditary) in the village. Mr. Utsuboya explained, "Many families have qualified priests spanning three generations of parents, children, and grandchildren, so there are more than 60 priests in the entire community. The community works together to maintain the shrine."

This shrine has long been known as a guardian deity of agriculture, and on January 3 of each year, they hold a ritual to predict the crop of the year, called Futomanisai. Although it is not open to the public because it is a secret ceremony, the shoulder bone of the stag is burned over a fire, and the cracks in the bone tell the quality of the 25 crops that will be harvested. He says that this fortune-telling has been deeply believed by farmers to often be accurate.

In the late Edo period, the Ise pilgrimage triggered a trend of temple-shrine pilgrimages, in which commoners visited famous shrines and temples in distant places. People formed groups called "ko" in their villages or among their friends for the purpose of making pilgrimages to temples and shrines together, and each year they would send several representatives of the group to temples and shrines in turn. Musashi Mitake Shrine has long been regarded as a guardian deity of agriculture, and representatives of "ko" from many farming villages began to visit the shrine in droves, leading to an increase in the number of shukubo inns near the shrine to accommodate the members of these groups.
At that time, the "Oinu-sama," a Japanese wolf enshrined at the Oguchimagamisha Shrine on the shrine grounds, became the object of worship at Musashi Mitake Shrine. Mr. Utsuboya explained, "Oinu-sama is the messenger of Yamatotakeru no Mikoto, a deity believed to protect Mt. Mitake from demons. Farmers worshipped wolves with great devotion because wolves hunted down deer, wild boars, rabbits, and other animals that would destroy the fields. During the Edo period, the members of 'ko' would buy Oinu-sama's talisman and hand them out to the people in their villages."

Kofukusha Shrine on the shrine grounds enshrines the deity of soil, Hani Yamahime no Kami, and legend has it that if the soil around Kofukusha Shrine is brought back and sprinkled on the fields, it will prevent pest damage. According to Mr. Utsuboya, many farmers come all the way to Mt. Mitake to get soil and spread it on their fields. Since this would deplete the soil around Kofukusha Shrine, they now sell the sand they prayed for. Chef Yamashita learned that historically, Musashi Mitake Shrine has a deep connection to agriculture and food.

"Wow, the view from here is spectacular."
Chef Yamashita couldn't help but notice a small field located on a side road off the approach to Musashi Mitake Shrine. Because the site is cut into a slope at the ninth station of the mountain, you can enjoy the view of the mountains of Tama, as well as the skyscrapers of central Tokyo in the far distance. The vast sky occupies most of the view. It truly is a vegetable field in the sky.
*The field is not open to the public. This time, we were given special access to the field.

The vegetables are grown here by Mr. Naoyuki Kubota, the owner of the shukubo inn Nobori. Since the entire mountain of Mt. Mitake is a precinct of the shrine, all the fields in the mountain are owned by the priests.

On this day, white radishes such as Miura daikon, Nerima daikon, and Aokubi daikon were in harvest season, so Chef Yamashita decided to harvest the daikon as well. Mr. Kubota's advice was simple: "Drop the outer leaves a little and pull them out." And so it should be, for by pulling at the base of the leaves, it was very easy to pull them out. We harvested with great fun, checking out both large and small daikon.

"They have grown pretty well. I guess it's the soil," said Chef Yamashita, impressed. "It seems that the high altitude is also good for vegetables. People often say that pumpkins and yams from here don't fall apart when cooked," said Mr. Kubota. The high elevation of the field, with its severe temperature differences, soil rich in nutrients from the mountains, and the sun's rays, provided the perfect conditions for growing vegetables in the sky. On the other hand, there is damage caused by wild boars and deer. "This spring, wild boars destroyed our Irish Cobbler potatoes, so we all worked together to fence off the fields, but deer still come in," said Mr. Kubota.

Agriculture is always in close proximity to nature and the threats posed by animals. This poignantly demonstrated the farmers' devotion to Musashi Mitake Shrine and their prayers for a bountiful harvest.

The Kubota family's Shukubo Nobori is a historic shukubo inn founded in the late Edo period. They say that dishes using vegetables from their own field, including the "vegetable field in the sky" mentioned earlier, are popular, and on this day, konjac potatoes and yams that had been harvested were lined up in the garden.

A sumptuous meal was prepared in the hall, and according to Ms. Kayoko Kubota, Mr. Kubota's daughter and hostess, grilled vegetables on a ceramic plate, vinegared dishes, and simmered dishes are made from home-grown vegetables, and the contents change with the seasons. Another specialty is a dish of river trout from Okutama, seasoned with original miso and wrapped in hoba leaves and grilled.

"It's not vegetarian food, is it?"
Chef Yamashita's question was answered by Mr. Utsuboya, who was also present. "Shukubo inns in temples often offer vegetarian food, but for shrines, there are no restrictions on food. Besides, shrine visits are often accompanied by "naorai" (ceremonial feast). After your visit to the shrine, there is always more alcohol for you, if you like drinking alcohol. Since the visit to the shrine has brought you too close to the gods, you can use the help of alcohol at naorai to return to your human self," he said.
"Well, bon appétit! Cheers!"
The meal started promptly with a toast with Sawanoi from the local sake brewery, Ozawa Shuzo.
*You do not have to force yourself to drink alcohol.

The plump and flavorful daikon radish stew, combined with the refreshing yuzu miso, was as though it melted in the mouth. "Is this the daikon radish we just picked? Wow, this is the best! It's so good," said Chef Yamashita with a big smile. The specialty sashimi konnyaku was so fresh that it felt heavy when picked up with chopsticks. The aroma of konnyaku and its smooth texture went well with the spiciness of ginger soy sauce.

Chef Yamashita asked, "Ordinary guests are allowed to stay at a shukubo inn too, right?" to which Kayoko replied, "Yes, they are. In the past, it was mainly farmers' pilgrimage groups, but recently we have seen an increase in the number of ordinary people who make reservations online. We also have many overseas guests who are interested in Japanese culture, so we communicate with each other using our smartphones to translate what we say." The difference from ordinary ryokan inns is that shukubo inns are run by priests and have a shrine sanctuary called Shinden in areas such as the hall. When pilgrimage groups stay at the inn, they purify themselves in Shinden before visiting the shrine.

"Given that the number of farmers has been declining recently, hasn't the number of people who participate in group pilgrimages also been decreasing? What does the future hold for innkeepers?"
Chef Yamashita's direct question was answered by Mr. Utsuboya. "Thanks to our efforts to share information with the public, we are seeing an increase in public use and repeat customers, so I believe we can survive as a traditional inn. Mt. Mitake is a special place where the entire mountain is a precinct of the shrine, but there are people who live here, there is a time-honored food culture, and visitors can stay at inns on the mountain. There is so much charm to be explored. That is why we have given Mt. Mitake the tagline, "It's not just a mountain," he said.
"I see. That is very true. There are many tourist resources, and it would be interesting to see the spread of shukubo tourism from here. What I discovered throughout the day today is that when you visit Tama from central Tokyo, you get a strong appreciation for vegetables and food prepared by people, and feel as though you have been welcomed into the community. I feel that this is the charm of Tama's gastronomy tourism that you cannot find in the metropolis," said Chef Yamashita in agreement.

The commoners of Edo began to enjoy traveling by visiting temples and shrines, going to distant regions, staying at shukubo inns, and experiencing the local food and sightseeing. Travelers who stayed at shukubo inns on Mt. Mitake to make a pilgrimage to Musashi Mitake Shrine in those days must have been impressed by the scrumptious delicacies of the mountains and rivers nurtured by the abundant nature. The food culture and hospitality of Tama has been handed down to this day and lives on in this land.

The region not only offers the traditional cuisine prized in the historic inns used by our ancestors, but also a growing number of new venues, such as Satologue, that connect countryside gastronomy to the future, demonstrating the generosity and appeal of the region. Located on the west side of Tokyo, Tama's climate and rich culinary culture rooted in history and tradition have a deep appeal that will draw you in the more you take the time to travel around.

The first stop was Veggie Farm Kanon in Kamishakujii, Nerima City. Nerima City boasts the largest area of farmland among the 23 cities. The western part of Nerima City is dotted with thickets called yashiki-rin (forests surrounding residences), which were once used by farmers to collect bamboo and firewood, as well as to protect against the wind. Houses, vegetable fields, and thickets stretch out in a patchwork.

They were welcomed by Noriyuki Takahashi, whose family has been farming this land for generations.

He holds sweet potato digging events for groups every fall, and our pair, too, experienced harvesting the popular Beniharuka variety.
"It’s amazing! The soil is light and airy, isn’t it? There are a lot of insects, too, and you can see at a glance that the soil is healthy,” said Kotani, showing surprise.

“To make the soil (for sweet potatoes), I add rice straw, learning from my grandfather's method. When children from the city center come to dig for sweet potatoes, they are very happy to see a single insect or to unearth a potato because they don’t usually touch the soil. I think this is a good place for teaching about food,” said Takahashi with a smile.

When harvesting sweet potatoes, the trick is to break up the ridges of soil so that you can see the tubers before pulling them out. It was fine until the bright reddish purple fruit could be seen, but pulling it out seemed to take more strength than expected.
“Huh? I can’t seem to pull it out ... Wow! I think I’ve got about 1 kg!”
“Heave ho... Got it!”
Both of them were delighted, becoming like children again. They succeeded in harvesting enormous Beniharuka potatoes.

There are many farms in Nerima City that offer farming experiences. Sale of vegetables right beside the fields using coin-operated lockers are so well-established in the area that they are known as “Nerima style,” and you can find information about these vegetable sales and farming experiences on the official Toritate Nerima (Freshly-picked Nerima) app. Of course, Veggie Farm Kanon also has an unmanned stand, and on this day they were selling sweet potatoes, taro, chestnuts, shiitake mushrooms, Japanese radish leaves, and more.

According to Takahashi, there are many people who come from outside the city to buy vegetables, driving home the reality that Nerima is the closest vegetable production area for people living in the center of the city. In addition, there are many consumers close by, so Takahashi says that he sells vegetables directly to the owners of restaurants, ramen and pizza joints, bakeries, and confectionery shops that he met at business networking events. He apparently sometimes works to grow new varieties after receiving requests from stores.

"Urban farming may have constraints, such as limited production volume due to small fields, but on the other hand, there are huge consumption areas nearby, so there are many opportunities for people to learn about your vegetables and farm. That’s perhaps a strength for farmers in the 23 cities,” said Kijima with admiration.
Urban agriculture faces challenges, such as the aging of farmers, labor shortages, and difficulty in stabilizing profits. Given this background, "Did you have any doubts about taking over the farm in this day and age?" asked Kotani.

Takahashi replied, “I thought that preserving this traditional farming area was an important thing to do, so I didn’t have any doubts. However, in the eight years since I started farming, I have come to realize that I can't do the work without manpower, so recently I have been searching for ways to make urban agriculture sustainable, such as by working on the Agri-Welfare Alliance, in which people with disabilities are asked to help with farm work via their welfare facilities, and by introducing methods for making processed products or preserving foods for long periods of time.”
The participants learned that a new history of urban agriculture is being carved out in Tokyo thanks to the enthusiasm and ingenuity of the producers.

The pair decided to have lunch at "Koryori Ishii," a restaurant where you can enjoy dishes that reflect the wishes of these producers. The owner, Kohei Ishii, worked at a restaurant in central Tokyo before opening his own restaurant close to home in Oizumi, Nerima City. The beautiful Japanese cuisine, which uses plenty of vegetables grown in Nerima City and “Edo Tokyo Veggies,” the traditional vegetables of Tokyo, is popular.

“I started using local vegetables when I took part in a ‘greenery and farming experience class’ near my family home and started farming at the weekend. I was introduced to a lot of farmers through the class, and now nearly 20 farmers work with me,” said Ishii.
In response to Kijima's question, "What’s good about using local vegetables?" Ishii immediately answered "Definitely freshness,” and continued,

“It takes two days for produce which reaches the market to get from the field to my shop, but if it’s local, you can use vegetables picked right there that day. Freshness comes through in the taste, so the difference is huge.”
However, there are also difficulties: harvests can be bad depending on the weather, and farmers are reluctant to grow vegetables that require a lot of time and effort. According to Ishii, it is necessary to take care that the transactions do not become a burden on farmers.
“I feel that it's important to build relationships with the farmers. For example, Naito Kabocha (pumpkin), an Edo Tokyo Veggie, is not in general circulation because the pumpkin seeds need to be returned to the farmers after cooking in order to conserve the species. By gaining the trust of farmers and doing business with them, my customers can also enjoy this traditional vegetable,” Ishii explained.

Ishii goes directly to the farmers to pick up the vegetables, so he goes back and forth between his house, restaurant, farms, and Tsukiji Market every day. The reason he goes to the fields even if he is busy is because there is so much to be gained in the fields.
"It’s quite a difficult task to come up with a new dish, and my mentor as a chef looked at cookbooks when he was stuck. But as for me, if I go to the field, the vegetables will tell me. Farmers tell me that they have turnips today and satsumas will be ready soon, and I often think up dishes starting from there. I think that one of my strengths is being able to see the fields and change the menu however I like.”

He also says that farmers often teach him unique ways of eating things. This summer, his "Korean-style seasoned bitter gourd," which was based on the way farmers eat it, became a hit.

The grilled fish set meal for today’s lunch was served with colorful vegetables, and these were as gorgeous as the fish which was the main ingredient.

“The clear soup is Goseki late-ripening Japanese mustard spinach from Mr. Yagasaki in Nishitokyo City, and I bought it myself this morning. The turnip was picked yesterday at Mr. Takahashi's place in Minami-Oizumi. The sweet potatoes are from Mr. Kato in Oizumi, and they are stewed in an earthenware pot with rice and lemon,” said Ishii, explaining the vegetables used in all the dishes together with the names of the farmers who produced them. When the lid of the earthenware pot was opened, steam billowed out, and cheers erupted once more.

"There’s no doubt that it’s freshly picked, freshly boiled, and freshly made. Everything in the dishes is delivered directly from the fields, and you can tell that Mr. Ishii has deep relationships with the farmers,” said Kotani.

Colorful and beautiful dishes that warm the heart: the pair were full of smiles as they enjoyed locally produced, locally consumed food unique to Tokyo.

"This neighborhood is where I come from."
Kijima guided the pair to Myo-hou-yu, a public bath in Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima City.

When they entered the women's bath before opening, following the third-generation owner, Yukihiko Yanagisawa, they saw a small tub filled with hot water and packed with kelp. Once a month, 10 kilograms of kelp are washed in this tub to remove debris and plankton, and then put into the bath to create the “Kelp Bath.”

"Kelp is cultivated in Tokyo Bay with the aim of protecting the environment because it not only helps to increase plankton and preserve the marine ecosystem, but also absorbs five times more CO2 than cedar trees. Of this kelp, the non-edible portion is sent to public baths in Toshima City, where they can be enjoyed by our clients as “Kelp Baths.” Kelp contains plenty of fucoidan, which is also used in cosmetics, so it really moisturizes the skin,” says Yanagisawa. Moreover, the kelp which was used in the bathhouse is then used as fertilizer by Sayama tea farmers, also playing a role in the food cycle. At public baths in Toshima City, local elementary school students experience washing kelp, and this series of activities apparently won a special award at the Ministry of the Environment's Good Life Award.
The pair also washed specially-prepared kelp, and Kijima decided to take a soak in the “Kelp Bath.”

“When I washed the kelp, it was slimy, but the hot water felt smooth and pleasant. It also smells of delicious kelp broth! It was an interesting experience,” said Kijima. Yanagisawa laughed, saying, “Customers often say, ‘I feel like I’ve become an ingredient in oden (fish cakes and vegetables stewed in broth).’”

Waiting for them in front of the counter was Cola Kobayashi, the representative of Iyoshi Cola. Iyoshi Cola is a specialist craft cola maker which was established in 2018 in Shimo-Ochiai, Shinjuku Ward. It is now sold in many shops, but it is said that public baths actually sparked its popularity. Seeing that the pair were about to drink their Iyoshi Cola right away, Kobayashi taught them how to drink it: ”Turn the can upside down for about 10 seconds before drinking it. The spices which have settled at the bottom will mix in, and when you pull the tab, the fragrance will billow out.”
"I’ve waited 10 seconds. I’m going to drink it! ... The taste is kind of nostalgic. Is it cinnamon?”
“Cloves? This is delicious! It's perfect after a bath."

"How was this Iyoshi Cola born?"
The two were intrigued to find out that Kobayashi had always been an ardent cola fanatic, making cola as a hobby while working for a company. "One day, I made cola based on the information left by my grandfather, who was a craftsman of Japanese and Chinese medicine, about the ingredients for mixing Chinese medicine, and I realized that I had come up with something amazing! I started selling it from a food truck. The name of the shop, Iyoshi Cola, is taken from Iyoshi Yakko, the workshop of Ryotaro Ito, the Japanese and Chinese medicine artisan who was the grandfather of Cola Kobayashi; and the company was founded in Shimo-Ochiai, where my grandfather's workshop was located,” said Kobayashi. Perhaps because the product has a connection to Chinese medicine, it was a good match with public baths. "Iyoshi Bath," containing bath salts made from cola residue, was held at about 450 public baths in Tokyo and was apparently very popular.

With the unlikely combination of kelp from Tokyo Bay, cola produced in Tokyo, and a public bath, the two experienced the ultimate healing experience at Myo-hou-yu. After leaving Myo-hou-yu, Kotani started to speak earnestly. "I get a sense once again of how there are many different people and varied cultures in Tokyo. Public baths and cola also add to the picture from the perspective of food, and they have an exciting entertainment aspect to them, too. This broad scope is truly astounding.”

※Public baths displaying curtains saying "WELCOME! SENTO" offer service in multiple languages and cashless payments. about WELCOME！SENTO >>

A few minutes' walk from Myo-hou-yu is CYCAD BREWING, where Kijima and Myo-hou-yu's Yanagisawa often go for a drink. The building, on which the old logo “Nishi-Ikebukuro Mart” remains, was once a kind of market for independent stores. When you enter through the entrance where a large cycad has been placed, you find a wide space reminiscent of an American bar, and you can see the brewery beyond the counter.

This is a microbrewery started in April 2023 by three people who were in the craft beer business in Tokyo. Chief brewer Ichiri Fujiura is also the only non-American brewer to win a gold medal in an American home-brewing competition. According to brewer Tetsuya Fukuda, who gave us a tour of the brewery, beer takes about a month from preparation to completion. A total of 1,200 liters of beer can be produced in the three tanks.

The name of the store, Cycad, is the English name for a palm-like evergreen plant, and apparently combines the depth of craft beer with the diversity of cycads. “We want to value diversity, so we make four or five kinds of beer a month, or about 50 kinds a year. We update the same beer by changing the malt and hops, and sometimes new flavors are born from customer feedback,” said store manager Kosuke Uematsu.

The pair were also given a special opportunity to go behind the counter and serve beer from the keg.

There were nine kinds of beer on the menu, and Uematsu explained them in detail, which naturally raised their expectations and interest.
“Horridus 3 is our third creation and our flagship beer. It's a cloudy type of beer known as ‘Hazy,’ and it has a tropical taste without bitterness.”
"... It’s fruity and really easy to drink!"
"Sugimoto the Elder is the graduation piece of Sugimoto, one of the brewing staff. It's named after a legendary American beer called Pliny the Elder."
“... Here’s a hint of bitterness. Delicious...!"
This was truly the diversity of craft beer. In this way, their glasses emptied again and again.

Today, more and more craft beer microbreweries are popping up in Tokyo. Cycad Brewing sometimes collaborates with beer bars in the neighborhood. Another attraction of Tokyo is that people who want to try new things gather there, and they meet and create a kind of chemical reaction: it is easy for this type of movement to arise. According to Uematsu, many beer lovers come to Tokyo from other regions to enjoy craft beer hopping. Speaking of craft beer, America is its home, but Uematsu says the level of Japan’s craft beers is rising, so the difference is not as great as in the past. "When it comes to freshness, it doesn't need time for importing, so Japanese beer is very fresh and delicious."

Kijima reacted to these words: "Freshness is important for beer, too, right? This is another form of local production for local consumption, and I feel that today's tour has come together. What I felt while visiting various places today was that the proximity of production areas and consumption areas is a big plus for people who want to do something new and interesting in the heart of the city. Coming into contact with the things people make and the emotions behind them is an interesting experience in itself, so if the attractions of Tokyo’s gastronomy are communicated widely, it will become even more interesting,” he said with deep feeling.

One of the attractive points of Tokyo is that people come together naturally, generating new challenges and exchanges, and so the first shoots of new food cultures can be seen.

Vegetable fields, Japanese food, public baths, craft cola, and craft beer: the participants experienced local production for local consumption embedded in daily life and a food culture rooted in Tokyo's climate. It was a day of rediscovering the interesting aspects of Tokyo that cannot be known without actually going to see them for yourself.

Do you know such vegetables as Yanaka Ginger, Nerima Daikon Radish, and Naito Chili Pepper? These are all vegetables the people of Tokyo hold dear to their hearts.

The first destination of our tour is Farm Watado, a farm that has produced vegetables from traditional times until now.
The vast farm is located about a 10-minute walk from Heiwadai Station on the Yurakucho Line.

Watado's Passion for Edo-Tokyo Vegetables

We asked Watado, the farm owner, about Tokyo's traditional vegetables (Edo-Tokyo vegetables).

"Edo-Tokyo Vegetables" refer to the vegetables that originated from agricultural seeds and traditional cultivation methods in Tokyo until the mid-Showa period, with the majority of seeds being self-sustained or maintained by nearby seed merchants.

You will find Nerima Daikon Radish still freshly covered in dirt and Shintorina, a leafy vegetable spilling out of baskets, at the stands located at the entrance of the farm.

These vegetables are all piled up randomly, each showcasing their own unique and distinctive characteristics.
The vegetables look as if they were just harvested from the neighboring field, each one boasting its own fresh appearance.

Edo-Tokyo vegetables are often irregular in size and shape, making cultivation difficult.
However, Watado is determined to preserve these precious vegetables that have been deeply rooted in the land of Nerima for generations.
With such passion, he continues his efforts to cultivate Edo-Tokyo vegetables.

Watado kindly gave us the opportunity to experience harvesting Komatsuna (traditional Japanese mustard spinach).
There was a scent of soil and deep green as soon as we harvested it.
We felt the power of life from the fresh, lush leaves spreading outward.

※Source: JA Tokyo Chuo Kai site

In recent years, there has been a global boom in alcoholic beverages inspired by the local area, using ingredients associated with the location.

Interestingly, Tokyo also has distilleries producing such special drinks.
As the next destination, we headed to one of them, the Tokyo Riverside Distillery located in Kuramae.

Tokyo Riverside Distillery is near Kuramae Station on the Oedo Line and Asakusa Line, within walking distance of the Sumida River.
As you approach the entrance, its mint green shutter and awning catch your eye.
Surrounding the area are cafes and bars housed in renovated old warehouses and factory buildings.
The building of the distillery used to be a printing factory as well.

There is a stand where you can purchase craft gin for takeout on the first floor of the building.
You can see copper stills beyond the stand.
This time, we were guided through the process of gin production by Miyajima, a bartender and distiller at The Ethical Spirits & Co., the operator of the distillery.

Understanding Sustainability Through Gin

Gin is made by infusing juniper berries (the fruit of the common juniper tree) and botanicals (ingredients for flavoring) into distilled spirits derived from grains, followed by a final distillation process. Interestingly, the main ingredients used in this distillery are by-products generated during food processing, such as cocoa husks and coffee grounds, which are considered unnecessary and typically discarded.

For example, in the case of LAST ELYSIUM, a popular gin from the Tokyo Riverside Distillery, it is made of sake lees, which are produced in large quantities during the process of making Japanese sake.
It is said that about 30_40% of the rice used in making Japanese sake becomes sake lees, but sake lees are often disposed of due to the imbalance between the amount generated and consumed.

Tokyo Riverside Distillery is taking initiatives to upcycle sake lees that would otherwise have been disposed of in response to this situation.
By purchasing and using sake lees in their distilled spirits, they aim to create new economic value for sake brewing, rice farmers, and gin distilleries, thus fostering a circular economy that connects these industries.
It was mentioned that this reflects the idea of sake lees remaining at the end of sake brewing process continuing to the next life, which is symbolically conveyed in their gin.

We moved to the bar located on the second floor of the building after touring the distillery.
We tasted three types of gin produced on the first floor and enjoyed the richness of their aromas while imagining the ingredients before they were transformed into gin.

Taking on new challenges in Tokyo

Kudo from Ethical Spirits mentions that one of the appeals of Tokyo is the ability to take in appealing ingredients from all over Japan, regardless of the region.
What was originally meant to be disposed of within the flow of manufacturing is reborn as gin and restored into a consumable product once again.
Tokyo is considered an ideal location as a hub for this circular production cycle.

Goods from all over the world gather and are consumed daily in Tokyo, the largest city in Japan.
It is an endeavor that started here in Tokyo, aiming for the sustainability of food and the local economy.
I hope that many people will come to appreciate the taste of craft gin, brewed with the distiller's belief.

From the Tokyo Riverside Distillery to the kitchen studio.
We invited Chef Shimada, the owner chef of the natural bistro Ireel Ningyocho in Nihonbashi Ningyocho, to be our instructor, and tasted the Komatsuna (traditional Japanese mustard spinach) cultivated by Watado.

The menu was Traditional Japanese Mustard Spinach potage soup.

According to Chef Shimada, to further increase the flavor of the Komatsuna leaves harvested this time, he added shiso, which is not typically included.
Chef Shimada went through a process of trial and error in creating the recipe to further bring out the uniqueness of the ingredients while also considering the possibility of participants recreating the dish at home.

I was overwhelmed seeing the dedication of the chef exploring optimal cooking methods, thinking of the uniqueness of the ingredient and it made me eager to hear more.

A trip to explore the behind-the-scenes stories of everyday food products and dishes that we casually eat.
When you spend time at the supermarket or while enjoying a meal at a restaurant, you may not always think of the people behind the products or how they are made.
By understanding the background and messages from the producers, these food experience transform into something even more delightful.

It is an experience diving into the unknown.
Embraced within the casualness of everyday life, related to an adventure through food.
Why not start such a culinary trip yourself?

Our trip began with a visit to the charming culinary stage, Shokujidokoro Chiwaki, located approximately 40 minutes by car from JR Ome Station.
This traditional farmhouse restaurant offers a unique dining experience.

Here at Chiwaki, you can enjoy local delicacies such as sweet fish and wild vegetables.
This time, we were served grilled deer caught in Okutama.
Game meat, also known as gibier, has recently been gaining popularity, but in Okutama, it has long been consumed as a valuable source of nutrition.
I had expected wild deer to be tough and wild in taste, but when I brought it to my mouth, it was far more tender than I had imagined.
The more I chewed, the more I could sense the umami of the lean meat.
I was surprised by its softness and wonderful flavor.
This is the kind of food that you can only experience at a certain place at a certain time while you are there in person.

This is one of the pleasures of traveling.

Departing from Shokujidokoro Chiwaki, we drove for 30 minutes, enjoying the views of the mountain ranges and Lake Okutama.
Our next destination was a visit to the cultivation grounds of wasabi, a renowned local product of Okutama, essential for sushi, sashimi, and as a condiment in Japanese cuisine.

Our guides for the trip were Hitoshi and Tatsuya Tsunoi, known as the Wasabi Brothers.
To get to the Wasabi Field, they first gave us a lecture on walking in the stream.
After the lecture, we strapped into boots and explored the streams of Okutama for the wasabi fields!

TOKYO WASABI, cultivated by the blessings of water and the heartfelt dedication of producers.

The Wasabi Brothers shared various insights about wasabi. They emphasized the crucial need for clean water for the growth of wasabi.
They also explained that in the water-rich region of Okutama, wasabi has been cultivated since the Edo period, often presented as a tribute to the Shogunate.
Wasabi grown in the diverse natural environment of Okutama, with significant temperature variations, ranks third in Japan in terms of production volume and is highly esteemed by chefs.

Sushi is now a globally renowned dish, and with its popularity, there is also increasing interest in wasabi abroad.
Visitors from abroad are also coming to visit the wasabi fields in Okutama.

Despite the growing global interest in wasabi, the number of wasabi farmers has been decreasing due to the aging population in the region.

To prevent the loss of traditional wasabi cultivation, the Wasabi Brothers have been actively involved in organizing tours to introduce wasabi, participating in food events, and undertaking various initiatives to promote Okutama wasabi.

Elegance hidden within freshly harvested wasabi, with its sweetness and aroma.

After our lecture, we arrived at the wasabi field, where we tasted wasabi.
The Wasabi Brothers recommended that we try some freshly picked and ground wasabi, and it was so sweet!
What a delight!
It was the first time I experienced sweetness spreading in my mouth after eating wasabi.
The sweetness was accompanied by the strong aroma of wasabi that slipped through my nose.
Only the flavor of wasabi remained on the tongue, with no trace of spiciness.
I was really surprised at how different it was from commonly sold store-bought wasabi and later learned the cultivation method is different.

Being Japanese, I thought I was familiar with the taste of wasabi, but this was another discovery.
Such discoveries are indeed one of the highlights of traveling to production areas.

The last program of the culinary trip in Okutama was the experience of making soba noodles at the Yama no Furusato Village.
It is a pleasure to eat a meal prepared by someone else, but there is a different kind of deliciousness in food prepared by one's own hands.
This is especially true when cooking with family and friends.
After making soba noodles, topping them with fresh wasabi, and tasting the noodles firsthand, it truly encapsulated the culinary essence of Okutama.
The final meal was also of indescribable, exceptional deliciousness.

Explore the quest for that delicious bite and make your everyday meals even more enjoyable and delightful through a one-day culinary trip in Tokyo, where you can enjoy a trip filled with tasty discoveries.